Finding Out What Things Are Worth: Step by Step with OWNAMIC

Published by Adrian Vogel · Reading time: approx. 12 minutes · Last updated: October 2026 · Jurisdiction: Germany

Before you start: This guide is not financial, tax or legal advice. OWNAMIC is neither an appraiser nor a dealer. The figures in OWNAMIC are non-binding estimates. They are not appraisals. Nor are they a promise that anyone will buy or sell at that price. Is an estate, insurance or a sale with a lot of money at stake? Then ask a specialist.

In short:

• At the end you have a backed-up figure for your piece and know its limits.
• You need photos, the catalogue number and ten or more sold comparable pieces.
• Re-estimating uses AI credit; your own research only costs time.
• OWNAMIC produces no appraisals and does not check authenticity.

Whether papers change the price is covered in Value Loss Without Papers: Why Documentation Decides the Price. How to record a piece clearly is in Digitise a Collection. This article answers the next question: what is it worth? And how far can you rely on that figure?

What you should know: there is no single value

The same piece has several correct figures. Mix them up, and you can be out by a factor of several.

• Replacement value: what an equally good new item costs in the shops today. Home contents insurance usually means this figure.
• Market value: what a buyer pays today for your piece in its condition. For collectibles, this is the figure that matters.
• Dealer buying price: what a dealer pays you. It is below the price at which the dealer sells on. The dealer counts in risk, storage time and profit.
• Catalogue value: a guide figure from a catalogue such as Michel, the well-known German stamp catalogue. Stiftung Warentest, a German consumer testing body, quotes the German philatelists' federation (BDPh) on this: Michel prices are theoretical values. They are not realistic sale prices. For ordinary collections, sources give buying prices from a few per cent up to about a third of catalogue value. The figures vary widely.
• Auction result: the hammer price, the top bid that wins the lot. Buyers usually pay a buyer's premium on top, a fee to the auction house. Sellers pay a commission. The auction house's terms say how high both are.
• Metal value: for gold and silver, this is weight × fineness × daily price. Fineness tells you how much pure metal is in it. Coins and jewellery, though, trade as pieces. They often fetch more than their metal.

And the key distinction: an asking price is not a valuation. What someone asks says little about what someone pays.

Step 1: Identify the piece precisely

Without a precise identification, you cannot compare. "An old coin" has no price. "5 Mark 1951 J, extremely fine" does. You need:

• the catalogue number or reference. Examples: the Michel number for stamps, the KM number from the Krause catalogue for coins, the Discogs entry for the pressing of a record, the reference number for watches.
• the grade, meaning the condition, in the language of the field. Examples: vz (vorzüglich, extremely fine) for coins, mint never hinged for stamps, NM/VG+ for records (Near Mint, almost like new / Very Good Plus, in good shape).
• what belongs with it: box and papers, original packaging, certificate (a written confirmation that it is genuine)

This is how you record it in OWNAMIC:

1. Use Detail shots to photograph both sides and the detail that sets the value.
2. Under "What the photo cannot show", enter what no photo shows.

If OWNY is not sure, it asks rather than guesses. The video "Wenn OWNY nicht sicher ist" (When OWNY is not sure) shows this. It is in the German-language help under Image Recognition.

Step 2: Compare sold prices, not listings

The simplest route to a realistic market value is completed sales.

eBay. Search for the piece as precisely as you can. In the filter bar on the left, under "Show only", tick "Sold items". In the app, the filter is at the top right. Sold prices are shown in green. Then:

1. Sort by "Recently ended".
2. Exclude terms that do not fit, e.g. "-defective -repro -copy".
3. Keep only pieces in the same condition and with the same accessories.
4. Note ten or more sales with date, price, condition and shipping cost.
5. Take the middle price (median), not the highest. To find the median, sort all prices by size and take the one in the middle. An outlier at the top is usually a special case.

The normal search shows sold items from roughly the last 90 days. For longer periods, eBay offers sellers a free product research tool (formerly Terapeak). According to eBay, it goes back up to three years.

Discogs. Discogs is a platform for records and CDs. For each release it shows a sales history with the lowest, median and highest price. According to users, the median there does not take condition into account. A near-mint pressing and a well-played copy feed into the same figure.

Step 3: Put auction results and catalogues in context

Auction houses for coins, stamps, watches or art publish their results. Watch for three figures:

• Estimate or starting price: the expectation before the sale.
• Hammer price: what was really bid.
• Hammer price plus premium: what the buyer paid.

For the seller, what counts is the hammer price minus commission. Many houses give a free first assessment. They do this if they would like to sell the piece for you. Use catalogues such as Michel or Krause to identify a piece. They give a guide figure, but not a price.

Step 4: Keep dealer buying price and selling price apart

A dealer offers a piece for €100. That dealer will not pay you €100 for it. So get at least two offers before you sell. For stamps, the BDPh points to one place to start: the member list of the German stamp trade association (APHV). For gold, the German consumer advice centres (Verbraucherzentrale) also advise getting several offers. They warn against doorstep deals, meaning buyers who come to your home. Sell in a shop. Take someone you trust. Do not let yourself be rushed.

Step 5: Work out the metal value of precious metal

For bars, scrap gold and old jewellery, you can work out the metal value yourself:

• The hallmark is the small stamp in the metal. It gives the fineness in thousandths. 585 means 58.5% gold.
• Fine weight = weight × fineness. A 10 g ring in 585 contains 5.85 g of pure gold.
• The gold price is usually quoted per troy ounce. That is 31.1035 g. So 5.85 g is about 0.19 ounces.
• Metal value = fine weight in ounces × daily price per ounce.

According to the Verbraucherzentrale, buyers usually deduct 8 to 15% from the metal value. Stones and other parts do not count, only the pure gold.

In OWNAMIC you link precious metal that trades by weight to the live price:

1. Open the object and choose Link live price. When you create an object, the route is Pick from live catalog.
2. Choose the precious metals class, the metal and the unit. Check whether your amount means grams or ounces. That makes a difference of a factor of about 31.
3. Confirm with Connect price.

From then on, OWNAMIC works out the value again every night from amount and price, instead of estimating it. OWNAMIC deliberately never links coins and jewellery to the metal price. They trade as pieces. So OWNY researches them like other collectibles.

Step 6: Bring in an appraiser when it matters

Your own research is enough for an overview. For an estate, insurance, a gift or a dispute, you need an appraisal. From an estimated value of 10,000, OWNAMIC itself points this out when you capture an object. It suggests you may want a certified appraisal before any money decision.

• Check the appointment. In Germany the title "Sachverständiger" (expert) is not protected. But there are publicly appointed and sworn experts (öffentlich bestellte und vereidigte Sachverständige, section 36 of the Trade Regulation Act). They have proven their know-how to a chamber. And they must be impartial.
• Search the directory. You can search the nationwide expert directory of the chambers of commerce (svv.ihk.de) by field and distance.
• For stamps, members of the German expertisers' association (Bund Philatelistischer Prüfer, BPP) do the checking. An opinion (Befund) confirms that a stamp is genuine. A certificate (Attest) confirms that it is genuine and states its condition, with a photo.
• Agree beforehand: What is the appraisal for? Should it set the market value, meaning the price in a normal sale? Or the replacement value, meaning what a replacement would cost? What does it cost, and how long will it take? Get it in writing.

Step 7: Read the AI estimate in OWNAMIC

Every object you capture gets a non-binding estimate when you save it. OWNY always researches collectibles, watches, jewellery and art on the market. This applies whatever the "Research market prices from" setting says. Open the object and look at the value more closely. It has several parts:

• Non-binding estimate and the Price range of observed listings. For collectibles, art and jewellery, the range comes first. A single figure would suggest a precision that is not there. The lower end is realistic, the upper end slightly hopeful.
• The Evidence chip. It shows how well the figure is backed up:
  • AI assumption: OWNY found no public listings for this piece. The figure comes from similar items.
  • AI estimate: OWNY found a few listings. That is little for a solid figure.
  • AI research: at least two comparable findings with sources back the figure.
  • your own entry and appraisal for figures you enter yourself (step 9)
• As of and Basis: "observed listings" with the valuation type Market observation. "current retail prices" with Replacement value.
• The number of comparable findings and the sources. Above them is a clear note. OWNY found them in public web results. The providers named have not confirmed them.

If a result comes out above 1,000,000, OWNAMIC shows no value at all. At that level, an automatic estimate is not accurate enough to mean anything.

Step 8: Have it re-estimated

Values age. A certificate turns up, and so does a scratch. Re-estimate starts fresh research. You find it on the Value & Market tab or on the object's value card.

1. Under Existing photos, select pictures. Under New photos (optional), attach current ones.
2. Under "What has changed?", open the rows that apply: "Condition today", "Changed since", "Box & papers", "Provenance" and "Comparable price".
3. Under "Comparable price", enter the sold prices from step 2. For example: "median of 12 sold pieces on eBay, August to October 2026: €85".
4. Switch on "Consider this object's history". Then repairs, services, damage reports and certificates of authenticity go along with the request. This means everything you have recorded on the object.
5. Choose the Valuation type and the Target Reference Market, e.g. "Germany (eBay.de, Kleinanzeigen)".
6. Tap Start re-estimate. The analysis runs in the background and uses AI credit. The price is shown on the button.

The result appears as a new entry under Valuation History. The old value stays. That way you see how the value develops.

Automatic re-estimate. Does the object already have an AI valuation? Then you can do this in the same dialog:

1. Switch on "Re-estimate this object automatically".
2. Choose an Interval from "Daily" to "Yearly".
3. Tap Save schedule.

Scheduled runs use the settings from the dialog and the stored images. They run at night at 02:00 UTC. UTC is world time; in Germany it is then 3 or 4 a.m. Each run uses credit. To plan runs for many objects at once, use Re-estimates in the "Collection" edition. Collector prices rarely change from day to day. So for most collections, one run a year is enough.

Step 9: Add your own figures and appraisals

Your own research and an appraisal sit next to the AI estimate. They do not replace it.

1. On the value card, tap Add Estimate.
2. Under Type, choose "Self valuation" or "Expert valuation".
3. Choose the Valuation type. Enter the Valuation and the Date.
4. Under Data Source, write where the figure comes from. For example: "eBay, 12 sold pieces, median" or "Appraisal no. …, publicly appointed expert, 03/2026".
5. Tap Add valuation.

The figure then carries the chip "your own entry" or "appraisal". OWNAMIC does not check it. Should an appraisal count as proof? Then upload it with Upload File. Use Change type to set it to "Certified Appraisal". Only then does the object count as documented under Receipts & evidence. Without the file, an appraiser's figure counts there as estimated. Your own entry counts as assumed.

Note: the entry with the latest date is the current value. Say you add an old appraisal while a newer AI estimate exists. Then the AI estimate stays in front.

Step 10: View the history as a corridor

Under More → OWNY analysis, OWNY Studio has a Price History tab. There OWNY researches how prices of similar pieces have moved. It draws this as a corridor, a band with minimum, mean and maximum per year. It is an estimated range from public web results. It says nothing about future prices. This request uses credit too.

Common errors of judgement

• Confusing a listing with a sale. A listing at €500 only proves that someone would like €500.
• Taking the catalogue value at face value. Dealers usually pay only a fraction of it.
• Mixing up replacement value and market value. Insurance usually means the first, a sale the second.
• Treating a record price as the benchmark. A top result applies to a top piece in top condition.
• Forgetting fees. Commission, buyer's premium, shipping and expertising costs change what you end up with.
• Trusting the total blindly. Objects without a figure are left out of totals. No notice tells you so.

What OWNAMIC does not do

• OWNAMIC does not produce appraisals. Every value shown is a non-binding estimate or a sum based on a price quote.
• OWNAMIC does not see prices paid. Research in public web results finds almost only listings. You enter sold prices from eBay or Discogs yourself.
• OWNAMIC does not check authenticity. It does not check the grade either.
• OWNAMIC does not verify appraisal figures you enter. It shows them as an appraisal. They only count as documented with the file attached.
• OWNAMIC does not tell you whether to buy, keep or sell. It also says nothing about how prices will develop.
• OWNAMIC never values coins and jewellery at the metal price. If you need the metal value, you work it out yourself.

Checklist to take away

• Worked out which value you need: replacement, market, buying price or appraisal
• Piece identified precisely: catalogue number, grade, accessories
• At least ten sold comparable pieces in the same condition noted, median taken
• Auction results put in context with hammer price and premium
• For precious metal, the metal value worked out and bars linked to the live price
• At least two buying offers obtained before selling
• For high values, a publicly appointed and sworn expert consulted
• AI estimate read with evidence, basis and findings
• Re-estimated when needed, comparable price given
• Own valuation or expert valuation entered, appraisal attached as a file

Read on: Digitise a Collection · Value Loss Without Papers · What survived two decades in the cupboard · Keep an eye on your assets

Sources

• GIGA: eBay – finding and showing sold items (German): https://www.giga.de/tipp/ebay-verkaufte-artikel-suchen-und-anzeigen-lassen/
• GIGA: working out the average eBay price (German): https://www.giga.de/tipp/ebay-durchschnittspreis-ermitteln-so-gehts/
• eBay: product research (Terapeak) for sellers (German): https://www.ebay.de/verkaeuferportal/verkaufen-bei-ebay/terapeak
• GIGA: Selling CDs (Discogs sales history, German): https://www.giga.de/artikel/cds-verkaufen-lohnt-sich-das-welche-sind-wertvoll/
• Stiftung Warentest: Stamp collections – what are old stamps still worth? (German): https://www.test.de/Briefmarken-So-finden-Sie-heraus-was-geerbte-Sammlungen-wert-sind-5128885-0/
• Verbraucherzentrale: Selling gold (old gold, buyers' deductions, fineness; German): https://www.verbraucherzentrale.de/node/51721
• Verbraucherzentrale NRW: Selling gold – tips against price squeezers (German): https://www.verbraucherzentrale.nrw/wissen/vertraege-reklamation/kundenrechte/gold-verkaufen-tipps-gegen-preisdruecker-51721
• Federal Ministry of Finance letter on VAT for collector coins, NWB database (troy ounce = 31.1035 g, London fixing; German): https://datenbank.nwb.de/Dokument/1058440/
• IHK Rheinhessen: Publicly appointed and sworn experts (German): https://www.ihk.de/rheinhessen/recht-steuern/sachverstaendigenwesen/bestellte-vereidigte-sachverstaendige-1449640
• IHK Ostbrandenburg: Information on experts (section 36 GewO; German): https://www.ihk.de/ostbrandenburg/zielgruppeneinstieg-gruender/sachverstaendige/allgemeine-information-1843028
• IHK Frankfurt am Main: Finding publicly appointed and sworn experts (German): https://www.frankfurt-main.ihk.de/recht/uebersicht-alle-rechtsthemen/sachverstaendigenwesen/oeffentlich-bestellte-und-vereidigte-sachverstaendige-finden-5195284
• Briefmarkenmesse Essen: Expertising by BPP members (opinion, certificate; German): https://www.briefmarkenmesse-essen.de/?p=211
• Kettner Edelmetalle: Auctioning coins – auction house and dealer costs compared (German): https://www.kettner-edelmetalle.de/wissen/muenzen-versteigern-auktionshaus-haendler-kostenvergleich
• t-online: Selling attic finds (first assessments by auction houses; German): https://www.t-online.de/heim-garten/wohnen/id_100121928/dachbodenfunde-verkaufen-diese-5-schritte-sind-wichtig-.html

Deductions, fees and look-back periods change and differ between dealers, auction houses and platforms. The figures given are orders of magnitude from consumer and trade sources, not binding information.